It has been a little while since I have posted something.. partially because I found myself swamped with the real world… and partially because I have yet to have something to post at any great length… (I took a little time off to rejuvenate and recouperate).
It has been a rough winter… negative temperatures and absolutely freezing conditions have made climbing in a down jacket a regualr necessity- that combined with handwarmers in the chalk-bag; I have managed to fight off the endearing cold. However; I have found that dealing with this has made me a better climber in general. Being able to suffer through some of the worst conditions I have encountered so far has allowed me to appreciate and climb through almost anything. Losing all feeling in my hands has made really observe body position and mental focus to be able to make it up something as simple as a 5.12– not saying 5.12 is simple but when you have them wired…
That is partially why it pains me to admit that my psych on my project this winter has been growing into a slight frustration and depression due to my inability to not freeze out after the first few meters. This route involves little crimps, to big dynamic moves that have a potential to hurt or destroy tendons, skin, and spirit!But I have found myself lucky enough to have a psyched belay partner, that is willing to suffer like the best of them; as I try my hardest to micro-beta my way up this route. Then something shifted… the weather broke and the sun came out…
The cold was how I was climbing this route the last few months… but now, due to a nice little upshot in weather; all of the suffering is paying off. I have noticed that climbing in bad conditions but working through beta has its benefits… especially when you start to feel good.
The other day the sun was shining… it was a marvelous 40 degrees and I could feel my hands on my warm ups and climbed in a T-shirt! Sitting at the bottom of the crag I felt a little glimmer of hope… today could be the day that I had been waiting for… the send day! I glanced over and looked at my new 5.10 Dragons… shoes that I had never used on the route before (I had always preferred the teams) and decided that for some reason they were what Gutless Wonder was going to need.
Not wanting to psychologically hurt myself on the route, I set what I thought were reasonable expectations… then crushed them. I hiked through parts of the route that were causing me linking errors, then managed to put together the crux and on my 5th burn with the route I managed to one fall! Armed with this new psych, I feel now that the route is finally coming together!
There is a lot of work to go still but I am ecstatic and ready to finally put another one to bed after such a long and horrendous winter!
Armed with my new gear from 5.10, Adidas, CAMP and Edelrid I plan on sending the rig! Soon… so… so… soon!